My eldest son, who married his Turkish fiancé in England in April 2006, invited the close family and friends to the away leg in Turkey in June 2007. The trip started quite uneventfully even the M25 to Stanstead was flowing well until you get almost to the M11 junction for Stanstead, then some bright traffic engineer had put traffic lights on the M25, it could only happen in England!
The flight was on Turkish airlines and was on the narrowest bodied jet I had ever been on two rows of 3 seats and an aisle so narrow that the trolley could just fit in between it, for all except the most petite just to pass along it sideways required a level of skill that even Houdini would have found challenging. That said the flight crew were friendly helpful, polite being noticeably nimble and slim, two of them could quite easily pass each other sideways in the aisle! This was rectified on the flight back which had leather seats and was very luxurious, well done Turkish Airlines.
Landing in Istanbul at 9pm local time it was hot being 23c the drive to the hotel was by taxi, it was surprising to see all the taxis were brand new, all Fiats and shiny yellow. I thought oh the stories I had heard about the drivers, use of horn and Mexican standoff tactics must be greatly exaggerated. I was soon proved wrong on at least a dozen occasions on the journey to the hotel. It was like a scene from the film Death Race 2000, I was grateful for the views of the sea and the old city walls of Istanbul from the coastal road which connects the airport with the Europe side of the city, they kept my eyes off the road. I just sat back drinking it all in with the window open and the warm air rushing in to calm me down as we just missed another taxi that had jumped the lights in front of us, not bad a 60 mph! In England the two drivers would have been gesticulating and stopped with ensuing road rage, not in Turkey they just congratulate each other on how skilled they are to pass less than 10mm away from disaster. I thought I had seen it all but when I found we were travelling down the Tram lane in the City and we had to stop I was worried the Tram following might not have the same sort of traction to allow such a short stopping distance. To my utter delight it stopped less than a foot behind us, which is quite normal, as I was soon to find out, but awkward if you want pass between as a pedestrian. Oh and believe me after a couple of days you will become frustrated when you cannot cross the road, due to the density of traffic. The city has 14 million residents and during the week some 25 million people can be in the city. Istanbul dwarfs London, in every way you can imagine.
The Hotel Agan, was in a little street in an area much like our Central Ward Area. Very busy cosmopolitan and handily placed for everything, you would want to see and do in old Istanbul. The staff were extremely helpful and the whole of the place spotlessly clean, not expensive and far better than any B&B in Blackpool I have stayed in and was only half the price. Rooms had air conditioning and breakfast was included, the bathroom is about downstairs cloakroom size from your average 3 bed house in England, still it had shower taps and one could easily sit on the loo, shower and shave at the same time; not that I did mind you.
Istanbul by night I can imagine can be very romantic for those that are inclined that way, for me it is a passion, beautiful and inspiring. Istanbul is a city of two halves the Europe side and the Asian side and Turkey itself has something for everyone. If you want to flop, then go to the south of Turkey, but if you want culture then Istanbul has much of it, though Turkey has more culture and heritage than in my humble opinion Rome. Istanbul is definitely not for those who want to flop or lay about. It is an active holiday and yes there is much fun to be had.
I had achieved a childhood dream to visit St Sophia or Hagia Sophia or as the locals call it AYASOFYA’ (AH-yah so-FEE-ah), or translated into Church of Divine Wisdom. This vaulted dome is a feat of construction hardly bettered anywhere in the world even today and the finest example of Byzantine architecture in the world, well I think so anyway.
Hagia Sophia Pictured from Blue Mosque Note 4 Minarets added after 1453

It was built as a Constantine church by Emperor Justinian a ruthless political leader in his lifetime. Only five years after being built; an earthquake damaged it in December 557 and the dome collapsed in May 558 AD, strange that when you think of the two major Constantine (Christian) religious festivals that would have taken place during that time when it would have been packed with people. This dome is slightly larger than the Capitol building in Washington. Good to see that the Americans can look on in awe too. There are many things to see in the dome and you must visit Hagia Sophia if in Instanbul.
The Topkapi, Hagia Sophia, Cistern and Blue Mosque are only 4 minutes from the hotel and that does not mean it you have to be Roger Bannister to cover that distance. Topkapi Palace was famous long before the film, which I remember from my childhood; when a gang of crooks wanted to steal the famous diamond. In this film they came down from the ceiling on wires, so often copied in later films but without the same effect that the original had upon my childhood games, leading to frequent visits to the local infirmary (please do not try this at home) I recall as a young lad under 10 climbing into the rafters of a partly constructed house hanging upside down on a rope and yes you have guessed it the rope slipped and I crashed headfirst into the floor joists hitting my face full square on one of them. My mother is still embarrassed by the school photos to this day; it still makes me laugh even now. My personal opinion is obviously based upon halcyon days looking very much through rose tinted spectacles but when we were kids there was not the health and safety trepidation that appears to hamper children’s play, discovery and fun today.

Topkapi, contains many unique artefacts the Tomb of Alexander (pictured left) and a replica of the Trojan Horse there are many other things, unfortunately I missed this one I spent the time in its gardens, which are extensive and have a vantage point over the Bosphorus.
The Bosphorus, a beautiful deep blue waterway, flowing between the Black sea and the sea of Marmara, remember it is best to swim in one and not the other. The Black sea has sandy beaches and the locals swim there, the Marmara has al the rivers flowing into it the rivers are quite polluted. It separates Istanbul into two continents Europe and Asia it is a former valley that is now flooded and runs for some 20 miles its width varies between 750mts and 3500 mt and its depth anything from 30mts to 120mts. This globally strategic waterway is very busy and it is like watching traffic on the M4 passing by there are ships of all sizes even super tankers and ferries and fishing boats, it is easy to capture at least a dozen ships in any frame when taking a photograph. Again the ferries and fishing boats are driven with the same skill as the taxis. I am surprised that the captains of the big ships do not swallow their hearts as smaller boats cut across them and jostle with them, even when reversing. Great to watch but a bit hairy when you are in one.
The Ferries are very frequent and only cost about 50 pence to travel one way whether that is one stop or 10 stops. They are like buses and travel to a timetable, which is better than you can begin to imagine you can use one ferry to cross the river or just travel up or down one side of the coast as they zig zag from bank to bank. I counted 5 cruise ships tied up along the Asian side of the waterway and there were several armed warships on station as well as the largest fireboat I have ever seen. There were many fishermen, which again was strange as they fish off anything including the bridges drawing up their lines as boats pass underneath between the piers. There is much to see as the shores rise sharply up to 70 mt and give some buildings prominence. Hold your hand out from the boat and stretch out your fingers and it is as if there is a mosque at the end of each one in whatever direction you look to point it. This is really good when they call out for prayers it was like quadraphonic sound and was another unique sound to add to the bustle of Istanbul.

One journey you can make is to use the cable car to travel to the top of one of the daunting riverbanks. The cable car serves two purposes it takes you over the burial ground (pictured right) and up to the top of this imposing feature. Once at the top you can look out across Istanbul and see the Europe and Asian sides it is worth doing even if the surroundings are somewhat macabre, though one has to admit there is even a serenity and beauty here. It is the first time I have ever sat down and drunk coffee alfresco next to gravestones, but that is the beauty of Istanbul it is secular, diverse, and inclusive.
Getting around this part of Turkey is very easy as well as hiring a car public transport is plentiful whether it is tram, train, metro, ferry, taxi, or dolmus. Tokens for the public transport is available at kiosks near each stop, and only cost about 50 regardless of the journey these can also be obtained from the many entrepreneurs that scratch a street living in this great metropolis. These people of all ages will sell you a token but there will be a handling charge of about 10-15p on it but hey a Kid’s got to make a living! Don’t get me wrong these are not street urchins they are people as I have said from all ages who make a living from the streets. selling services, they have trolleys and sack trucks and act as porters for local businesses and tourists transporting loads or suitcases. The streets are cobbled and steep so it is worth a quid to pay them to move it from the taxi or bus through the streets, which though are in some places pedestrianised. Well Turkish style that is you will still get the odd vehicle moving about in them. All the street entrepreneurs shout out hawking their services some singing and it all adds to the street atmosphere that is old Istanbul, they sell water and collect all the paper, bottles, cardboard etc for recycling. They have large bags like the ones we have sand and gravel delivered in the ones that hold a tonne! They spend the day filling them up and then at night cart them off to collect the few pound for the waste. It is really efficient the streets are spotless and the city council and residents hose them down regularly. Though this may be curtailed as there was a drought on and they had not had the winter rains that usually come.
Constantine when he had laid out Constantinople later Istanbul had laid on incredible water supplies as he stated a city could only be a plentiful as its water supply. Many of the aqua ducts and drains laid down in the 6th and 7th century is still in use today, again dwarfing the aqua ducts in ancient Rome. Constantine went one better at the Cistern, which is betwixt the Hagia Sophia
and the Blue Mosque was a small valley about the size of three football fields, he built a reservoir there and roofed it in then built on top of it; what an engineer!

The Cistern, (pictured left) is far from boring and it welcomed when you want to get out of the heat of the day, cool and refreshing. No longer used to provide drinking water, you can walk through it and around it on raised platforms. In the water are some carp and they are no exaggeration massive, you have to see them to appreciate just how big they are. The water is pure and clear and I am told quite drinkable.
Again there are several different pillars holding up the vaulted ceiling and one of the pillars had eyes carved onto it there are also two large sculpting of Medusa famous for her head
of coiled vipers and that she could turn you to stone if you glanced upon her. It is said she was a mortal who fell in love with the god Perseus, and a jealous goddess turned her into the mythical Medusa. There have been given many reasons as to why the heads are there one head is on its side and the other upside down, both have pillars resting on them. As I have said Constantine was an engineer, a sort of municipal engineer who built the city and I think he just used whatever was at hand to keep within budget so it is probable went of to the local reclamation yard, just like we do today, as they say when in Rome.
The walls also show signs of recycling stone not only by the original builder of Constantinople, Emperor Constantine, who became a Saint but also by Justinian who was far from saintly reinforced them after an earthquake and built two more walls parallel to the original wall. The walls are some 14 miles long and surround old Istanbul, just like in any other modern city, building outside the walls stretches beyond them for miles. The walls resisted many attempts to breech them for almost a thousand years until technology over took them in the 15th century 1453 when Constantinople fell to Sultan Mehmet, who had built a cannon (siege gun) specifically to smash the walls of the city. The cannon was reported to be some 27ft long and fired a cannon ball a mile. However the bombardment stated on 6th April and on 6th May it still had not breeched the walls though much damage had been done to Christian Gate. However on the 24th of May there was a thunderstorm the like never seen before the streets flooded and people were swept away along with a hail storm that you could hardly stand against it. This was seen as a bad omen by defenders and the city soon fell. On the 29th May Sultan Mehmet rode triumphantly into Constantinople and the rest as they say is history.
The walls were built to be earthquake resistant and that is why they have courses of tiles in them to allow movement and to stop cracks in the stonework.
In many places buildings on top of and in the walls has taken place over the centuries and at present a modern luxury hotel is being built on top of an area that was fortified.The picture (left) shows houses built on there. This is about 20 mts high from where the picture was taken. In between the walls Justinian had dug a ditch, which was filled with water, this is now where the railway line runs. Again engineers taking advantage of a cutting and level plane ideal for a railway to use. The railway terminus in Istanbul, is where the Orient Express ends it journey.
It was from this station (picture below left) that we embarked on a train to Corlu (Chorla) for the wedding.
The train journey took 3 hours and cost about £3.00 one way. It was about 45 miles and the train stopped at every station en route and it is a great way to see Turkey. Some stations are just concrete blocks in between the track, be aware that the platforms are low and you have to climb up into the train if your cases are heavy then this is a feat any weightlifter would be proud of, fortunately my eldest son lifts weights to keep in trim so it was no problem. I always travel light so was able to get around the train corridors with ease and lift the cases up into the storage area which again is at full height. Which is placed above the door high in the roof of the carriage. The train journey though long was interesting as you meet the locals and see the life of rural “Europe Turkey” as young a local passenger told me, in very good English.
I recall passing over rivers and streams all black and foul smelling emptying out into the sea, the pollution was caused by sewage and factories, but before anyone condemns Turkey for this. I recall my own childhood in the industrial North West of England and the rivers were all like this in fact as kids we could smell the Mersey on a breezy hot summers day from at least 2 miles away! In fact a local company made cellophane and you could always tell what colour they were producing by the colour of the brook, they discharged their water in. You could also taste the sulphuric acid and acetates in the air and if you left nylon clothing on the washing lines it always had small holes in it burned in by acids etc. However I never saw anything this bad in Turkey. In my hometown the Mersey would be covered from bank to bank and for several miles in a dirty brown froth to about 2 ft thick which used to blow off the river like giant soapsuds, all from the manufactures of soap and fertilisers that discharged into the river. In my parents hometown the canal near the glass works had water discharged into it by a water sprinkler system, known locally as the “hotties,” this was fascinating as a child as the canal at this point never froze over in the winter of 1963 and you could swim in it. A local pet shop went bust and the owner put all his tropical fish stock into the canal at this point including puffa fish. It was fished heavily but the tropical fish always flourished and survived.
On arriving in Chorlu the station was in the middle of an Industrial estate. And the road to it was nothing more than a track, yet it was a busy rail link. I think that the railways in Turkey are just another means of transport that works well and therefore does not have the sanctification we seem to place on them here in England. I can only praise the Turks for their integrated transport, makes us here look inept, which I am sure we are not.
Chorlu, is an expanding town and is about the size of Swindon and in fact is facing the same pressures we are here, there is much in common, as they are expanding their housing stock at a rate even we cannot match 3500 units a year or so I was told. We stayed in a new hotel in a Turkish equivalent of Abby Meads. I felt at home at one point listening to English property developers out there doing deals, it sounded no different in one conversation I overheard not intentionally I may add; the geezer with the London accent was talking of 20 which I soon found out he meant 20 million Euros!
All the apartments are built to resist earthquakes, which happen in Turkey. I found this comforting being on the top floor of our very narrow but very high hotel. This was real comfort and again not even as expensive as a travel lodge or similar hotel over here. I went along to the mall and you have to pass security to get in it like in an airport. It seems like everyone in authority is armed here security guards police municipal officers and the army etc.
It is soon becomes normal in Turkey to pass by soldiers in camouflage with assault rifles and police with machine pistols, none of them wearing any body armour or protective helmets.
The reason for the visit to Turkey was the wedding, this is, as you would imagine different, but not in many ways to a traditional wedding in England. The colour red is more predominant and in Turkey red and white are held in reverence by some, could it be to do with St George?
The night before the wedding it is party time the men and women are separated and the men eat and drink and the women dance and sing. The bride dresses in a costume, which is maroon and gold and resembles something from the Arabian nights. The men eat and it is good to sit down and communicate through the bottom of a glass it appears drinking and laughing are an international language all of their own! In Turkey beware of a drink called YAKI, drunk with 50% water and you have to eat fruit when you are drinking it, fail to follow the rules and they say about Yaki one, two three, floor!!! That is where you end up so be warned when dabbling in local customs. It is easy to drink it straight down, but it returns with a vengeance. The wedding reception was a big family get together with about 500 people seated around the swimming pool of a hotel. You do not eat at it or drink, anything except soft drinks, it is seen as bad form to go off to the bar. We were allowed because we were guest visiting and the customs are different and because of that some of the Bride’s uncles had to join me they did not want me think their behaviour was disrespectful towards me!! I am sure that they were most sincere in their reason for having to drink the 10-year-old malt I bought them. Everyone else was dancing and singing and the Disco was different it was a DJ who was good but he also played a synthesiser and was very good and professional. The dancing was nothing like I had been involved in before I felt like Zorba!! The Bride’s uncle was also a politician and I met the leader of the local council and head of housing and head of transport as well as schooling. Local politics was very interesting they have exactly the same challenges we have here.
The Bride and Groom wear white silk ribbons around their necks and guests and family do not bring presents they pin money onto the ribbons and it is traditional to give gold, the Bride receives gold bracelets all tied with a red ribbon and placed onto her left wrist and the groom receives gold coins which he puts in his pocket, but the giver pins a little gold token to the white ribbon again with a red ribbon attached. (Pictured right) the Bride and Groom at the beginning of the gift ceremony; they soon had a queue stretching halfway around the swimming pool. Afterwards there were many bracelets, notes and coins and everyone is photographed with the Bride and Groom. To touch or see a Bride on her wedding day is considered good luck of the best sort and when we left the house to come to the reception the children ran after the Bride and Grooms car and I mean children hordes of them and as we went through the town they would run into the road and touch it, one or two of them left my heart firmly in my mouth as they darted across busy main roads and junctions.
At one point during the dancing guests shower money onto the Bride and Groom and to pick it up is also a lucky omen. They also do a Gypsy dance as they call it, which is a mime, and again money is showered over the dancers and I do not mean coins it is all notes.
It was also very easy to get around Corlu, as they have buses and Taxis but the Dolmus service, was very good this is a sort of large minibus that takes as many passengers as it can squeeze on and it does a circular route round and through the town. It costs about 50p again no matter how many stops you are travelling. They also have the same service in Istanbul, and is very useful. We said goodbye to Corlu and departed from near the war memorial to the
WW1 dead. This was very impressive and paid to tribute to the dead, it was different to war memorials I have seen across the rest of Europe. The First World War actually ended somewhere to the north of Corlu, and the memorial remembers Gallipoli, as well as other campaigns. At Gallipoli Britain and the ANZACS, lost many men, during this short and fierce bloody campaign. It was so strange as the Lancashire Fusiliers sustained high causalities on the landings on the first day and I recall as a child speaking to several veterans of the campaign. Today it is comforting to think that “Mehmet and Tommy” are allies in NATO and no longer enemies. ANZAC day at Gallipoli, is remembered and honoured by both Turkey and the Commonwealth in April each year.
The trip back to Istanbul was again notable as the coach sped along a newly constructed motorway, skirting the coast. On arriving in Isatnbul, the coach passed several multi storey carparks, nothing unusual in that you may add, well these ones had 44 tonne articulated lorries parked in them up to about 7 or 8 floors. The coach entered a similar one built for coaches and we transferred to a Dolbus, and then onto the Tram.

Back at the hotel I took some time out to relax and enjoy a hubble bubble pipe. Before you think what is he smoking and report me to the standards board, “it was peach flavoured tobacco honest guv.” That is all I am saying on the matter. Though I did smoke a twin pipe, which is an art in itself. This proved to be enjoyable and a very relaxing experience!!!!!!
My memories of Turkey are that it is a peace loving country at ease with itself, it is secular and has that written into its constitution, the people are friendly and there was an honesty and respect that I have not really seen in this country since the late 1960s. I do hope that it is successful in its bid to join the E.C. sooner rather than later. It has a diverse culture and a wealth of history and artefacts as well as breathtaking scenery. It is not very expensive and good bargains can be had. The food is superb and public transport very good.
My recommendations go see it, and experience all it has to offer.