Of Trains, Chitty Bang Bang and Babs.
Aug 3rd, 2007 by SteveWakefield
What is the connection between trains, Chitty Bang Bang and Babs? You might well ask that, and I hope it has aroused your curiosity. The connection is that unique link the British love of eccentricity the search to do something different and yet practical, as with all things mechanical, the Brits do it best!
The trains, it is the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch Railway, this is situated in a beautiful spot in the garden of England the shire county of Kent. It actually runs a distance of almost 14 miles, following the picturesque coast and countryside between Hythe and Dungeness, via New Romany. It really is a tranquil and peaceful journey. This is not just another railway; it has a uniqueness about it that carves it out from the rest of monolithic railway history.
The railway, has a “gauge” (track width of 15.5” inches) as opposed to the standard gauge of 4ft 8.5” inches. Do not be mistaken this is not a toy or a model railway it is full blown railway only in miniature. It has everything on a third of the scale of standard railways. (Pictured Below is Black Prince) This is a 4-6-2 German outline Pacific locomotive. Designed by Roland Martens. Built by Krupp of Essen in 1937. One of three she was built for a trade fair in Dusseldorf, before the war then put into storage. In 1976 the railway bought her. She has a South African Railways Chime Whistle, which sounds magnificently different!
The railway celebrated its 80th birthday on the 16th July 2007; this railway is a passenger railway and not just a tourist attraction. It has the notoriety of being the smallest public railway in the world and in its early days played very much on that reputation.
Building a set of luxurious Pullman (pictured below) coaches to carry the many famous celebrities who flocked to it. The name is again unique as it combines all its main stops in its name.
At Romney station you will find the engine sheds, erecting shop, carriage sheds (over the main lines), workshops, permanent way depot, etc. Most of the essential day-to-day work required keeping a railway going takes place at here.
During 1928, the name boards were changed to read “Littlestone-on-Sea” in an effort to emphasise the railway’s seaside location. To get to the beach, turn left out of the station and walk a good half a mile.
Hythe station is on the banks of the Royal Military Canal, which runs with the line as the train approaches the terminus. The town is a brisk fifteen-minute walk from the station. The ancient Cinque Port for those interested it has shopping facilities, restaurants, cafes, pubs, banks, supermarkets, antique shops, general shops, swimming baths, gardens, parks and a nice little seafront.
Dymchurch station used to be quite busy at one time; trains used to shuttle here from Hythe with holidaymakers destined for this resort. The town still offers a very seaside experience; sandy beach, fun fair, kiosks, shops, cafes and so on. Martello Towers can be seen from here built as part of the coastal defences aimed to defend against Napoleon and his troops. The church features in the novels of Russel Thorndyke, who created the smuggling vicar Dr Syn, the vicar of Dymchurch: “a pious and broad-minded cleric, with as great a taste for good Virginia tobacco and a glass of” This is still a good read and some may recall Walt Disney made a film featuring Patrick McGooghan as the Doctor. Other, earlier British films were made and one featured George Cole, who also played “Flash Harry” in the early St Trinians films.
There are other “stops” St Mary’s Bay built to serve holiday camps many of which are now gone and replaced with housing estates. The station is not too far from the beach, which is fine for bathing. On the way to the beach you will pass a pub, local shop, take-away and Post Office.
Romney Sands again built to serve a holiday camp with its sea-front houses and, the Romney Sands holiday camp. In land you can see Lydd Airport and some strange concrete devices. These were built by the War Department before the last war these are aeroplane detecting Sound Mirrors. It does work and still does; however radar was invented and quickly made it obsolete.
Dungeness this has the largest open area of shingle in Europe a protected nature reserve this shingle headland is renowned for its plants and wildlife. With fisherman’s cottages, some made from old railway carriages and boats, lighthouses, pub, craft shop, and two Nuclear power stations! Be careful if considering bathing the shingle beach shelves steeply. The tides are strong and erosion here is 6 metres a year some 90,000 cubic metres of shingle are replenished every year. Because of this need for continuous shingle replenishment and increasing sea levels, it is unlikely that the site will be used for any future nuclear power stations once the existing stations are closed. What will happen to the headland then?
Who was it that built this magnificent railway and why is a question I asked myself? The railway had its roots in English whimsical eccentricity as mentioned previously but the story does not end there. A very rich man, who had an interest in Railways and wanted to buy and own the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway in the Lake District, unfortunately his negotiations failed as the owners declined to sell it. So from adversity and disappointment as is often the case in such quests the RHDR was created.
That man was count Louis Zboroswki who lived at Higham Place a large country house near Canterbury he was the son of a Polish Count and an American mother one of the Astors. He was a wealthy and is recalled as a charming witty eccentric. His close friend Captain J. E. P. Howey shared the same passion for miniature railways and also Zobroswki’s first love motor racing. Howey was a landowner and former army officer also wealthy, but nothing like Zobrowki.
Together they built the railway, but Zobroswki was tragically killed racing at Monza, before its completion and opening. During his short life Zoborswki who was only 29 when he was killed in a Mercedes racing car after hitting a tree. Had designed and built 4 cars in the stables at Higham Place, 3 of which were called Chitty Bang Bang. He used aero engines they were 23 litre, Maybach 6 cylinders, which he had obtained from, scrapped German Gotha Bombers captured in WWI. The cars can only be described as monsters of their day. In fact the engines were squeezed into lengthened Mercedes chassis with totally inadequate exhaust systems. At the time it was said by a motoring correspondent to be “a brutal car put together by a madman”, (must have been the Jeremy Clarkson of his day) Chitty one won its races at a continuous average speed of 100 mph, incredible for its day. Sadly Chitty 1 does not survive being purchased after his death by the Conan-Doyle brothers she was abandoned outside Brooklands and eventually was robbed for spares. Zoboroswki’s pursuit of speed spawned the fourth car, which was called the Higham Special this was the most powerful of all these monsters.
When I was a child I had one of those “special” holidays that many of you may recall fondly from your own childhood sort of a “rose tinted spectacles” holiday packed with “halcyon days” memories of which only childhood bequeaths to us. I was aged 10 and went to South Wales; this for my family was a major expedition, as we were living in Northwest England. I had been to north Wales a lot, as it was a favoured day out from Warrington, but South Wales even the way it was said was intriguing. It is hard to imagine today that the fact that I was off to such far-flung places caused much envy amongst family and friends.
The anticipation that built up inside me over the weeks as the holiday approached turned to excitement. I recall we travelled down overnight in a Ford Corsair towing our little Bluebird caravan. When I awoke in the morning it was like the feelings on Christmas morning. I was at Pendine Sands! The beach was 7 miles long, 7 miles of open golden sands; it looked like a tropical paradise, to me a kid from the industrial northwest, with miles and miles of sand dunes. The water was clear and warm and you could drive your car down onto the beach wow it was just like a scene from the Beach Boys. I was just awed by it the entire expanse and the magnificence of it, especially as I had two weeks of it and it did not rain once, permanent sunshine.
The sands run from Pendine in the West to Laugharne the village where Dylan Thomas the famous Welsh poet lived overlooking such beauty he would sit and write in his garden shed. I had at that point in my childhood taken to reading with a passion, and on this holiday I discovered Thomas; I spent much time reading his works and still do. A plaque on the wall pulled up this holiday of discovery sharply, close to the entrance to the beach. It told of land speed record attempts taking place in the 1920s and 1930s and well my imagination had really been captured at the time in the news such attempts were still taking place in the US. I was definitely convinced that Pendine was something akin to Daytona Beach.
The plaque told a tragic story as well and when you are 10 it really fires up the imagination this romantic tale of a man who had broken the world speed record in 1926 at 171 mph, not bad for a chain driven car. All I knew about 1926 was the family folklore about the 1926 General or Great Strike, which my grandparents and their friends would talk about. But here was something really exciting as I read on The man who had done that was J.G. Parry Thomas he was former chief engineer at Leylands. He had bought the Higham special after Count Zorboswiki’s death and named it Babs. He had raced her at Pendine and taken the world land speed record in April 1926, but had lost it to Malcolm Campbell in February 1927 at Pendine who pushed the speed to 174 mph. Parry Thomas was not to be outdone in March 1927 he set out to rest the title back from Campbell. Babs was looking enchanting that March morning the weather was god and her streamlined white painted bodywork was glinting. With the engine a 27,059 cc Liberty aero engine, warmed up and purring Parry Thomas got in and roared off changing up the gears of the Benz gearbox delivering all that power to a chain final drive.
Some of us me included know what it is like to have the chain snap on your bike and the resulting injuries especially if you are going full pelt and it jams, as you fly over the handlebars, something I would not recommend. Well that is what happened Babs’ chain broke and she turned over several times catching fire, Parry was almost decapitated and the crew trying to get the body out of the burning car had broken his legs too. Parry was buried in Surrey and Parry’s friend buried Babs on the beach in the dunes somewhere.
I thought oh I know I must find her and dig her up so off I set with my bucket and spade. This was ambitious I know but at 10 years old even then I had a passion and enthusiasm for achieving what I wanted. In 1933 Amy Johnson had taken off from Pendine Sands to cross the Atlantic, during the war the beach was viewd as a perfect landing ground and air strip for the enemy to use, so the army had taken it over and it is still a military range. Not a very good place to go looking for things with a bucket and spade. The beach had then and still does warning signs and is closed by the military, being young I went blindly on and started digging, after some 4 hours I noticed a red flag, obviously missed during my enthusiastic search for Babs. The MPs who arrested me for my own safety were really good and actually took me to the spot she was buried at which took the gloss off the dream as it was in amongst some huts and buildings. I walked back to the caravan totally dejected, with feelings of failure and loss. I thought that would be the end of it and my dream would never be realised. It played on my mind after and I dreamed of digging up Babs, when I had spoken to some of the locals they had laughed at my ambition, something I was to get used to as I grew older, this was also scorned by some who said it should stay there the wicked thing that it was. You have to remember that in those days in Wales the pubs did not open on Sunday and you could not get a drink so there was a strong feeling about respect for tradition and beliefs. It did appear odd to me that on a Sunday in Wales you could not park up in a pub car park and be treated to lemonade and a packet of crisps like you could in England.
In 1969, my dream was achieved by a Welshman with a real welsh sounding name Owen Wynn Owen, a lecturer from Banger College. He exhumed Babs and then spent the next 15 years restoring the car back to how she had been that March Morning in 1927. I felt cheated and yet pleased it was quite emotional for me probably because I was now a teenager and hormonal emotions play havoc with you, but Babs had been taken from the ground by another man and it was not me. I think crushed was how I received that news. I felt cheated and the feeling of loss was bigger than ever.
I always look back on that holiday with such emotions and somehow felt a spiritual; connection to a car, or was it a dream or an idea or perhaps just romanticism. In the early 1990s I was a housing manager at a local authority and it had been a pretty stressful time, like only those that have worked there can testify. I decided that I needed to satisfy the loss I had and took my family to Pendine. I told my brother where I was going and he told me that he remembered that holiday fondly and had some great memories of it. A few years ago he had been stressed and had gone there on holiday returning quite mellow as he put it. Perhaps there is a spiritual calmness about the place.
Pendine immediately took my sons over and off they went just like I had, now being a parent I was worried about what they may dig up! We had only been there for about 4 hours and they had been gone for the best part of that. I went looking for them eventually I found them in the dunes and we started walking back as we walked up the slope from the beach I could see a fete was taking place to raise funs for some charity. I could hear a voice on the loudspeaker saying Babs has returned to Pendine I was pulled up short by this and when I looked into the fete a crowd was gathered round something.
I felt this sudden welt up feeling inside me; what Babs here I must have misheard, dragging my lads behind me I walked quickly almost running over to the Fete I pushed through the crowd and there on a trailer was Babs in all the glory I had imagined it. Babs was awesome, magnificent, beautiful, with a long streamlined tail, and looking wonderful. I could not resist touching that streamlined body and its curves, despite being warned off by a do not touch sign I let my hands meander all over that body exploring every curve and dip feeling how smooth the body was as it glinted in the sun. I suddenly felt the feeling of loss leave me in this moment of joy I had achieved it Babs was there we had finally been brought together by a stroke of fete, in the very place my quest had started. For the rest of the holiday I was in a happy daze.

